How Did I Miss You in HIstory Class, Prague?

My first thought on the way into the Czech Republic was that they were still using some sort of medieval communication system involving fires. From the plane I could see these small fires in each little city and also along the horizon. They almost appeared to be in back yards and then in town centers. I started to wonder what I had gotten myself into. Do they not use phones yet, or are they still worried about being invaded? Luckily the owner of our hotel explained later that night that is was Witch's Day and that all over people have bonfires that day. In fact on a late night stroll through Prague that first night we saw not only bonfires but also people dressed as witches and whatnot. Pretty fun.

Oh I should mention, I went to Prague with another ex-pat from FFIC, Brigitte. She is only in Munich for 4 months, but might actually manage to make more trips than I will in 2 years!

So anyway, the first night was quite fun because we checked into our hotel. Not normally a particularly "fun" experience, but this time it was. So about 2 blocks from our hotel the cab pulls to a quick stop and 2 police officers approach the car and shine flashlights into the back and then the driver pops and hood and the trunk. Then they walk around the car with one of those giant dentist mirrors to check underneath. After a couple seconds of worry, then a few seconds of just strong curiosity I notice the American flag a few meters ahead. We are about to pass the US Embassy. Then right after the Embassy is the police station and then upon parking in front of the hotel I notice the building across the small street is the German Embassy. This is just about the safest area of town! At this point the hotel owner greets us at the door, invites us to sit in the small lobby/entry way, gives us some water, and tells us everything we want to know (and more). It was fantastic. He gave us maps and recommendations and general city advice (taxis, pickpocketers, and money changing) and then the history of the house. It is 500 years old. Then to our great room right off the entry way. It was enchanting.

The next day we met the owner's (Jan) son, Jakob. After out great breakfast we got the "Jakob" version of what to do/see/skip for Prague. He basically told us all of his father's restaurant options were ok, but we should instead listen to him. Then he gave us more information than we could have ever dreamed of. It was all great though (which is not usually the case for hotels!) One of the first stops was for a trdelnik which is a fantastic Czech sweet treat. It is dough wrapped around a cylinder and cooked over a fire and then covered with sugar, cinnamon, and almonds. It was as good as you are imagining!

Then we headed up the big hill for the castle, monastery, and cathedral. Here is where we joined the other 5 million tourists! I still can't believe how many other tourists were in this city. I believe it is actually one of, if not the top tourist destination in Europe! Now that I've been there I can agree with this statement and also understand why. It is so beautiful and so diverse. I don't understand why we don't learn more about this city in history class. It has so much history. More than many other cities I've visited lately.

Anyway at about 2pm we decided to stop for lunch and went to one of Jakob's recommendations. The restaurant is called Palffy and is a very high-end, elegant place that offers an inexpensive lunch menu to encourage business at lunch. Since it was a perfect day we sat out on their beautiful veranda (although the dining room was so relaxing and charming I wouldn't have minded eating there either). The food was fantastic! Ostrich carpaccio, cod with beautiful veggies, and ice cream profiteroles for dessert even thought they weren't actually on the menu. A perfect relaxing and delicious lunch.

Lots of other great little stories from this afternoon, but I don't want this post to go on too long and this way you'll have to ask me about them and show you've actually read this post! They're really some of the funniest stories, so ask me.

Anyway, that night we had a super rushed dinner in order to get to the orchestra concert we had tickets for. At the traditional Czech restaurant we ordered a pork knee and let me tell you it was a once in a lifetime experience, because I will never do it again. Once I finally got a bite that wasn't pure fat it tasted rather good, but that took so long and was way too much work. It was funny though, because it came out on this hanging device and was thus suspended for us to eat off of. Oh and also, the Czech beer was good, but I am not understanding why the big to do.

It required a mad dash through the city, but we made it to the concert and it was worth it. It was in the Municipal House concert hall and was Czech composers: Smetana and Dvořák. Very beautiful both musically and with regards to the venue.

Sunday was the Jewish Quarter day (since of course everything is closed on Saturday). It was a very educational and moving day. From the Jewish cemetery with stones upon stones, to the old synagogues turned into museums on the history of the people and the faith for the past couple thousand years, to the Old New Synagogue which is the oldest in Europe, and finally to the Spanish Synagogue which was the most beautiful. Oh one of the best parts was at the entrance to one of the museums the old man checking the tickets invited me to join him in his booth. I might have considered it had he been about 60 years younger, but he was adorable.

Then to the third of Jakob's suggestions, Cafe de Paris, for lunch. And with that one Jakob was three for three on recommendations! Then we followed it up by sharing 2 cookies, and a slice of chocolate cake at a nearby bakery which cost a grand total of 31 crowns (which amazingly is only $1.50! You just have to love that conversion.)